Just down the road from Adrien, cousin Gilles Berlioz has patiently reimagined his domaine as a kind of Alpine garden, progressively reducing the surface under vine to around 7 hectares so that every row can be worked by hand and, increasingly, by horse. Having started conventionally in the 1990s, he pivoted fully to organic farming in 2004 and now holds biodynamic certification, no small feat in Savoie’s damp, cool conditions. The guiding principle is “one terroir, one vine, one cuvée”: parcels are matched to varieties (largely Jacquère, Altesse and friends) according to soil and exposure, and each is vinified separately to let its particular nuance show. Fermentations take place with native yeasts in fibreglass tanks and striking egg shaped vessels; élevage continues in steel or fibreglass, with only minimal sulphur, yielding whites of startling freshness, texture and finesse that have rightly propelled the domaine into the small elite of sought after Savoie producers.