Adrien Berlioz took over his family’s tiny Cellier des Cray estate in 2006 and has since turned it into one of Chignin’s sharpest Alpine voices, working a patchwork of steep slopes that cling to the foothills at around 390 metres. The 5 hectares of vines, on warm, stony gravel and pebbles over calcareous clay, are farmed organically and certified biodynamic (Demeter), an exacting choice in this marginal mountain climate. Jacquère and Roussanne (here known as Chignin Bergeron) dominate, with Mondeuse providing a counterpoint in red, each parcel handled almost as a separate cru. In the cellar, Adrien favours a restrained hand: low yields, careful pressing, indigenous yeasts and a mix of neutral vessels designed to preserve a keen cut of acidity and mineral precision that gives his Savoie wines their wonderfully chiselled, vertical profile.